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Melloblocco 2015

07.05.2015

Val Masino / Val di Mello, 3 May 2015: The 12th edition of Melloblocco drew to a close today in Val Masino and Val di Mello, Italy. This is the biggest climbing and bouldering meeting in the world and confirmation came from the 2,500 registered participants representing 25 nations, the 5,000+ climbers and also the unique nature of the event that unites their irrepressible love for climbing with the beauty of these valleys.

This morning they set off once again. In great numbers. All chasing those last problems. All absolutely indifferent to the weather that was, how should we put it… rather damp. Perhaps because for the Melloblockers this game, just like climbing itself, never ends? Or because the energy these girls and boys, men and women have seems unending? But there’s no point in asking more questions. What is certain is that after last night’s great party, after all the music and celebrations that continued well into the early hours of the day for a fair few, it seemed as

Tourniquet 8A for Leah Crane

25.03.2015

Marmot PRO Leah Crane has completed the steep and physical problem Tourniquet 8A on the Giant Stone in Kentmere. The problem follows an overhanging line on the underside of the aptly named Giant Stone which sits at the top of ‘Little Font’ in Kentmere. It was originally given 7C+ but the general consensus is now 8A since a hold broke a few years ago.

Leah worked the problem over four sessions last summer and fell off the finishing jug on the last session. After taking a break due to a shoulder injury, Leah returned last night with no expectations and managed it first go after reminding herself of the sequence.

Of the problem, Leah told UKC: “It is the coolest and hardest boulder problem I have done to date. Last year I invested a lot mentally and physically, to no avail. I first saw a video of the bloc online and instantly wanted to get on it. I’ve never climbed anything remotely similar to how this problem climbs, it is super beta intensive with intricate footwork (for m

A semester break with a difference!

24.03.2015

At the end of February 2015, Marmot PRO Christina Huber and her climbing partner Caroline North made the first free and unsupported female team ascent of the Via dei Ragni on Cerro Torre. The only other all female ascent of Cerro Torre was back in 2005, when Monika Kambic and Tanja Grmovsek climbed the Compressor Route. During that ascent Monika Kambic was injured by falling ice on the headwall and to reach the summit they had to jumar the crux pitch on a rope fixed by another party.
After returning from Patagonia, Christina got in touch to tell us about her trip and her experiences on Cerro Torre.

“Caro and I had talked about going to Patagonia (El Chalten) back in the summer but it was October before we finally got our flights booked. Right from the start it was clear to us that we would have to get really lucky with the weather if we were going to have any chance of doing a big peak in the short time I had available. I only had three weeks max before

Happy Birthday Stefan Glowacz!

22.03.2015

On 22 March Marmot PRO athlete and expedition climber Stefan Glowacz celebrates his 50th birthday. We would like to take this opportunity to congratulate him and to thank him for more than 12 years working with Marmot. Happy Birthday Stefan!

Read more about Stefan here.

Perfect ice in Tibet

19.03.2015

Marmot PROs Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have been searching for ice in Asia. The two athletes went to the Alps of Tibet, east of the Himalaya and found numerous ice climbing lines in the Shuangqiao valley. This is their story:

We could not see our opposite in the old smoking kitchen. To interview the old, wise man of the town the wood fired stove had to give its best. Someone could see the story of the old man in his face in every detail. He told us about the valley and its development. First there only have been two bridges in the valley. Now there is a street all along the 38 kilometers of the whole valley. Tourists come to visit the fascinating nature and mountains, which rise up to 6000 m left and right of the valley. The valley itself is around 3500 m high and Tibetan people settled into this inhospitable place. This people live their life in a very easy and pure form together with free running sheep, cows, Yaks, pigs and many other animals. An unreal, friendly mute

First free female ascent at Cerro Torre

26.02.2015

Wow what an achievement! Marmot PRO Christina Huber and her partner Caroline North just made the first free and unsupported female team ascent of the Via dei Ragni at Cerro Torre. The only other female team ascent of Cerro Torre had been done by Monika Kambic and Tanja Grmovsek back in 2005, when they climbed the Compressor Route. During that ascent Kambic got hit by falling ice in the headwall and to reach the summit they jumared the crux pitch on a rope fixed by another party. Two years ago Caro had reached the base of the last pitch with Laure Batoz from France.

Christina just wrote from Patagonia “We are more than happy!!! A childhood dream came true… probably one of the best routes in my life!” Congrats to both athletes for this impressive effort!

Stay tuned for a more detailed report in a few weeks.

You can find more information on Marmot PRO Christina Huber here christinahuber.blogspot.de.

Video Release “Stomping Grounds”

26.01.2015

Stomping Grounds! We are very happy to finally present this cool clip of Marmot PROs Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven bouldering in Colorado.

You can watch the video here.
Enjoy!

About the trip: Marmot PROs Jorg Verhoeven and Katha Saurwein return to America for an adventure in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado as an escape from the traveling life on the World Cup circuit. The duo spent one month bouldering in the high alpine of Rocky Mountain National Park where Katha was able to claim her first V13 (8B) and Jorg ticks some of the hardest climbs the area has to offer. Film produced by: Louder Than Eleven (www.lt11.com).

You can find more info about Katha and Jorg here: www.katharina-saurwein.com and www.jorgverhoeven.com.
Watch more Marmot videos here: youtube.com/MarmotEuropa.

Jorg Verhoeven free-climbs the Nose

07.11.2014

Congrats to Marmot PRO Jorg Verhoven who free-climbed "the Nose" of El Capitan as fourth person in history.

This is what Jorg wrote on his Facebook-page yesterday: "Yeeeaaaaah! I freeclimbed the Nose!!! In three days time I managed to grab the 4th ascent of this iconic route. I sent the Great Roof first burn on day #2 and Changing Corners after two falls the next morning. So incredibly glad I pulled it through. A lot of respect to Lynn Hill for freeclimbing this route 20 years ago! At least the male/female statistics are equalized now Feels like a big chapter has come to an end. PSYCHED!!!"

We are looking forward to a more detailed report on that!

Hard ascents for Jim Pope

31.10.2014

Marmot PRO Jim Pope,15, is on an incredible run of form at the moment with some super impressive achievements over the last month. It started with his win at the British Lead Climbing Championships in the Junior category, it is the first time he has topped the podium at this competition. After his crowning as champion he then went on to make a quick repeat of the classic Jerry Moffat route, Revelations f8b at Raven Tor in the Peak District needing just four short sessions. Whilst most 15 year olds are busy playing computer games or chasing girls, Jim didn’t stop and this weekend he returned to Raven Tor to complete Mecca f8b+ which he did in fine style. What’s perhaps more impressive is that Raven Tor is around a three hour drive from his home in North London … that’s dedication. There is an interesting article and video on UKC here: www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69262.

Congrats Jim, keep on rockin'!

Everest Deadliest Day 2014

05.10.2014

On October 9th, a panel of the UK’s top mountaineers will be discussing the events leading up to the recent avalanche on the South face Mt. Everest that killed 16 climbing Sherpas, and what this means for the future of Himalayan climbing and the economy Nepal. This event will be a fundraiser for the dZi Foundation, and all proceeds will go to supporting remote communities near Mt. Everest.

The panel discussion will include multi-media presentations, and will be moderated by Ben Ayers – a resident of Nepal for the past 15 years, and pioneer of the labor rights movement for expedition workers through his work with the local NGO, Porters’ Progress. He is currently the Nepal Country Director for the dZi Foundation.

The panelists include Doug Scott, CBE – who, with Dougal Haston, became the first Brit to successfully summit Mt. Everest in 1975 and is considered the father of alpine-style mountaineering. Rebecca Stephens is the first British woman to summit Mt. Everest and is


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